Our Last Day

Our Polish Adventure...

It's our last day here in Poland. We've had a great time running around taking photographs and we're all quite sad that it's come to an end. Thanks very much for reading about our adventures and leaving such encouraging posts, especially anon, who was most helpful. Don't stop reading as we will be updating the blog with full and comprehensive details of our travels when we get back and have more time, and hopefully uploading some 'real' photos when we get them developed. Looking forward to seeing you all soon. Beth, Kay, Vix. xxx

This was our last image of Poland before we left, taken from the 9th floor of our hostel, it was so beautiful.



The light around Warsaw was also amazing, but luckaly the heavens stayed closed for us lucky ladies.



But the greatest achievment of the whole trip was to find Vix a man, even if she wasn't too sure of him on first impressions.

JPII Day

Today we went to Wadowice, home of the late, great Pope John Paul the Second. Pope John Paul was, of course a Pole - and they love him.

No less that seven albums in the top 50 of the Polish record charts have featured the late pontiff since his death earlier this year. His books and biographies are read by everyone and anyone from teenagers to the homeless (see Vicki's Warsaw post) Bancomats advertise the soon to be released biographical movie of his life. So we were expecting a visit to his hometown to be a colourful affair, full of trinkets and memorabilia and stricken Polish Catholics anxious to pay homage to their 'papiez.'

In actual fact our visit to Wadowice was nothing like this. Although sizable number of umbrellas snaked their way up the hill of John Paul the second's childhood residence, too many by far to fit in the small shrine to his early life consisting of photographs, furniture and clothing of the young Karol Wojtyla (gasp!), there were nowhere near the coach loads of tourists we were expecting.



The church of John Paul's baptism is a modest building with an architectural onion on the top, not ostentatious in its decoration and with no mention of its connection to the former Pope. The only indication that the Pope spent any time here was the regular, rousing masses sung with feeling by the visiting congregation throughout the day and the quiet reverence of religious tourists who knelt and prayed in the nave before the main altar.

Polish religious tourism seems entirely different in character to the Italian variety. Less commercial, less dramatic, less...busy. Perhaps we caught Wadowice on a bad day. The miserable weather was certainly a deterrent to those thinking of visiting the small hill top town. Perhaps it is because John Paul the second, a towering figure in Polish history and one of the most impressive Popes to date, is not yet a saint and lacks the power of intercession, so while JPII has accumulated a string of hit albums to his name, he has so far failed to attract the hoards of Pilgrims that attend the site of the miracle working Black Maddona of Czestochowa, north of Krakow.

Whatever the reason I hope Wadowice retains its quiet sincerity, the best kind of homage to Poland's finest and only Papiez, loved so well by Poles the world over.

Cracking Time

Just a quick one to say that we got into Krakow yesterday lunchtime after a 4-hour train journey. Made some friends on the train and here are some photos of the cheeky scamps.





I am still lamenting the loss of my CD player on the flight over. Some thieving Pole has inadvertently landed themselves with a rare Stereolab CD so thank goodness for small mercies, my loss is their musical gain.

Will post more extensively when we have time to mull over our adventures and put them down into the succinct and lucid style you are all accustomed to. Just to keep you updated, today we went to the old castle and nearly fainted when we saw a Vasari painting (yup we are still art geeks) and we also visited the ghetto and took a trip round Oscar Schindler's factory. We even sat in his very office where he composed the famous list!





On a personal note, had some strange run ins with the Poles of late. Not sure if my golden locks make me look more Polish but it all began in Gdansk when I was dragged round the corner by a local. This sounds more shocking than it actually was. The Pole in question was an 80-year-old woman. Kay and me were queuing for tickets and she motioned to me to draw closer so she could speak. Foolishly I bent down to her height and she began jabbering away in Polish. I told her I was English and she grabbed my arm with an iron like fist. She then dragged me round the corner with Kay left in the queue bewildered. I tried to tell her I was English but she wouldn't let go. Finally we arrived at a timetable, which I presume that she wanted help reading, and as she let me go and I massaged my bruised arm, I was able to find a nice young Polish man to help her with her requests. Then on the train to Krakow I was sat in the corridor eating my sandwiches when the ticket inspector came. Ignoring the tickets we waved in his face, he grabbed my bag of sandwiches out of my lap and started chattering in Polish. He then showed them to the other passengers, manically laughing, handed them back to me and went on his merry way. It was all rather bizarre.

A Fiery Night In Wroclaw

Last night we headed into the old town square where we were met with an amazing fire display accompanied by drums and a real party atmosphere. Here are a few photos of the masters at work.



We also saw a Polish couple wandering around the square but I hope they managed to find a shelter as within a couple of minutes of taking this photo the heavens opened and there was the most amazing thunder and lighting storm set beautifully against the square. We managed to get ourselves a nice spot outside a bar so could watch everyone running out the rain from the dry comfort of our big umbrella, but we still managed to get soaked on the way home, ah well.

I Never Knew Snowmen Were So Vain...?

Today we stumbled upon a Polish contemporary art gallery and what we found inside was highly insightful. After being educated the Polish way, about the birds and the bees in an highly educational exhibition on the top floor, we walked around soaking up all the art, like all blood-thirsty art historians tend to do at every gallery they visit. Whilst on our soak up session we came across some things that caught our eye, namely a whole room dedicated to models of snowmen all looking in mirrors. It was most peculiar but maybe it was saying something about the pressure on snowmen and women to look their best at all times an keep their snow looking crisp and those carrot noses of theirs looking fresh, it must be so hard for them.



Then a room that had a rack of human skins - don't worry they weren’t real, just a little disturbing.



Then this rather attractive shopping trolley, now I know that there will be a few fans of this luxury item out there, I really think this is the pull along bag that’s going to bring them back in fashion, old and young alike will be pulling one of these babies along the high street.

Can't Bear It

The day started badly when Beth stole some honey from the honey jar...



Everyone knew that a chase would ensue. We had to escape to the jungle.



Kay took one last moment to gaze into the distance. The bear was very angry. Would she ever be reunited with her Polish lover...




While we were in the jungle, the intrepid Kay decided to adopt this sophisticated form of camouflage. The bear had given chase; we could hear its angry roar close behind us...




While we were in the jungle, the intrepid Kay decided to adopt this sophisticated form of camouflage. The bear had given chase; we could hear its angry roar close behind us...




Although Beth was secretly glad that it wasn't her!!

We all had a vodka shot to celebrate our victory...



And threw some shapes in the town square




What a day!


P.s - Or we might have gone to the Botanical Gardens in Wroclaw. Believe what you will.

Polish Rude Boys

There are many little fiats in Polska. They sound like little motorbikes and bomb it around the streets often carrying the older Pole or a penniless student. This particular little car caught our eye parked up in Gdansk and we think it’s splendid.

Poznan: Lakes, Skates and We Got Baked.

We arrived in Poznan and had a good old wander around the old town square. I was happy to get some real meat at last after surviving on bread and cheese for the past week, we did it in style at the Viking themed restaurant in the square but it was an exceedingly upmarket Viking restaurant, there were no savage looking bearded men or racks of meat, we all agreed that any Viking in their right mind would not eat in an establishment such as that. Anyways the next day we headed to the lake across the river, it was a beautifully sunny day and so we all had a good old walk around and got loads if photos of the things the people of Poznan liked to do on a sunny day. In true style Vicky and Beth hired skates and went for a cruise around, I must admit I was very impressed with the skills those girls were pulling.



Afterwards we had a good old Frankfurter and sat and watched the sun set or as Beth chose to do, go down the slide and get rather filthy, I don't know, what can you do with that girl? But it was a beautiful evening and really nice to have a bit of a relax for a change we had all been working a bit too hard. But it was a good day and we finished it of with a few local beers in a bar for the mere sum of about 51p a pint, sorry 0.5l.

Sunday Mass

On our only Sunday in Gdansk we decided to go to Mass in St Bridget’s church. St Bridget’s is architecturally unspectacular, re-built in red brick in 1973 to a 14th century plan. Nonetheless it is thronged with tourists. On the left of the nave is a large chapel dedicated to Solidarity, whose leader Lech Walesa found shelter in the church under martial law.

The shrine is adorned with distinctive red and white solidarity flags and we could not help but be moved by the central sculpted monument to the shipyard workers who died in the police brutality of 1970. The first in a series of strikes by the shipyard workers, the workers demanded higher pay to combat the crippling levels of inflation that gripped the country. This unprecedented public protest caused a knee jerk reaction from the government and police force. Over 200 workers died in the violence and on either side of the chapel there are small crosses are dedicated to each of the fatal casualties of the 1970's strikes.

Looking around the aging population of the church after mass we reckon most of them will remember the shipyard strikes of 1970. The older generation completely fill the cavernous church interior, a few young families scattered amongst them. Many of the congregation may remember Lech Walesa a frequent visitor to the church whose identity is connected so intimatley to his own.

The 1970 shipyard strikes sent shockwaves throughout Poland and still register painfully in the national consciousness. As recently as last year the city commissioned an impressive mural covering a fifty meter stretch of wall by Iwona Zajac which, like the chapel, is a lasting monument to those who lost their lives.

Although shocked by the loss of life in the 1970's strikes, the workers were undeterred. Led by Lech Walesa, they staged a second series of strikes in 1980 which received the attention of the worlds media. The strikes were supported by the Catholic church whose bishop performed a huge open air mass for those who had lost their lives a decade earlier.

As food prices doubled and 24 factories closed in 1980 in the relatively affluent Baltic region, the workers set out a list of 21 political and economic demands. This manifesto included the right to strike, the release of political prisoners and the abolition of censorship. The government, although anxious not to show signs of panic, was forced to concede to many of the workers demands in the Gdansk Agreement signed on the 31st of August 1981. The first trade union behind the iron curtain, named Solidarity, was formed as a result. Led by Lech Walesa, Solidarity was phenomenally successful, attracting over 10 million members in its first eighteen months.

In 1981 martial law was imposed in Poland as a direct result of the activities of Solidarity, who the Polish and Russian governments saw as undermining communism, not only in Poland but throughout the whole of central and eastern Europe. The country's borders were sealed, airports were closed, telephone lines were disconnected and a curfew was imposed between 10pm and 6am. In addition to this television and radio broadcasts were suspended and all public services and most factories were placed under military control. Although many Poles actively resisted martial law Solidarity was driven underground, and almost 4 thousand activists were arrested and imprisoned. During this time St Bridget’s became a welcome sanctuary for Waesla who avoided arrest by hiding there many times in 1980, before finally being arrested and detained for almost a year. Walesa was eventually released, won a Nobel peace prize in 1983 and became president of the third republic of Poland in 1989.

Social Realism

On the morning before catching the train to Poznan we managed to squeeze in a quick visit to an exhibition on Polish Social Realism. This is the name for the art patronised by the communists during the Cold War.

I suppose you could view this kind of art in two ways. Firstly it is a realistic art form that looks like what it is meant to represent. It presents its themes clearly so everyone can understand it, even those who are not educated in this area. This is the Communist argument. Communists also liked to argue that social realism was an art form that appealed to the masses because of its socialist subject matter, often showing factory workers and labourers. Communist's in the era that this art was created argued that it was a realistic and true depiction of everyday working life. They disliked art that was abstract or ambiguous in meaning because it was considered to be elitist and alienated the working classes.

The second way of viewing Social Realism is that it is a non too subtle form of propaganda, paintings boast happy, wholesome smiling faces and communist slogans that help to bolster the regime. These posters and painting were displayed in prominent places such as post offices and banks and many critics of communism consider them to be very unrealistic.

The exhibition we went to was organised very well and the posters and paintings were presented amongst triumphant red flags and vigorous marching music. It was easy to see how persuasive the paintings could be, even though we three were more inclined to sympathise with the second argument. We've included a couple of examples so you can make up you're own mind...










images from www.muzeum.narodowe.gda.pl

Last Days in Gdansk

We have really enjoyed our stay in Gdansk but the weather has been so bad that we still haven’t managed to get any good photos of the shipyards. This was bad news for us as the shipyards occupy a proud place in Poland’s heritage, as the towering shipyard monument testifies.

So on our last day we got up early and made a last ditch attempt to catch them on film.



Gdansk has a beautiful historic canal.



We also found a monkey.



and Vicki's personal favourite... a little cat

Our Day Out

Our Polish Adventure...

On.... we headed to Sopot, Poland's answer to Brighton,



We swam in the Baltic sea




Met the real Ronald McDonald



And drank lots of tea,




Before heading back to Gdansk for a few brewski's before bed.

A Tale Of Three Cities

Our Polish Adventure...
Gdansk is one of three large coastal towns that dominate the Polish Baltic coastline. Known collectivley as the Trojmiasto, or Tri-city,
they are Gsansk, Sopot and Gdynia.

We felt it was our duty to investigate all three cities. Luckily for us Sopot has a beach!



Gdansk is not only a busy tourist centre but also home to many industrial plants and the famous shipyards (previously Lenin shipyards) which were the impetus behind the Solidarity strikes of the 1980's.

Sopot is a very popular Polish holiday resort. It has a cosmopolitan atmosphere, a pier and plenty of lodys (ice-creams).







Gdynia is the least attractive and most run down of the three cities. The port was built in the 1930's to open up Poland's trade routes in the Baltic region. It is now a centre of economic growth. The authorities in Gydnia are currently planning a new ferry terminal, which will operate between Polish and Finnish coastal areas.

A Bit Of History...

Our Polish Adventure...
As we celebrate 60 years since VE day the Poles are remembering the 60th anniversary of the Postdam conference (July 17th - 2nd August 1945). This was the international conference that met after the end of World War Two to decide upon territorial disputes caused directly by Hitler's ruthless imperial policy, which led him to invade Poland among other mainland European territories. The Postdam conference was called to decide the future of post-war Germany and what to do with their territorial gains following the defeat of Hitler by the allied powers.

Each of the victorious powers had their own program for peace, and their own ideas about how to redistribute the territories formerly occupied by Germany. The main issue relating to Poland was how to determine its western border. After much dispute the western border was fixed at the Oder River and the Lusatian Neisse, the current border of contemporary Poland. This decision shifted Poland's border 300km (180 miles) westward, and they obtained the southern parts of East Prussia. Yet despite the expansion of territory on the west side, Poland still lost over 70,000 square kilometres (43400 square miles) of land, almost twice the land mass of Luxembourg, necessitating the relocation of almost 20 million people. These territorial losses introduced a heavy dependence upon the Soviet Union and helped to facilitate communism in Central and Eastern Europe. Thanks to Stalin's prominent role in the Postdam negotiations and the allies gratitude to the Soviets over their part in securing victory over axis powers the Soviet union managed to gain more than 500,000 square kilometres (310,000 square miles) of land, gains that were not restituted until the fall of communism in 1989, when the central and eastern European countries that had been adversely affected under communism regained sovereignty.